Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Make-Up Kit * Cosmetics

Now that you have read "Make-up Kit * Brushes", and know which basic tools to purchase, let's talk about Make-up!!!

The Make-up case to choose is only a personal preference, I started with a small metal case, then moved on to a large and now carry a really large case with wheels (it is actually a Scrapbooking case I purchased at a local art supply store, was a fraction of the price of a make-up case and it's fabulous!!!). Regardless of the choice of make-up case, make sure it's always super clean and organized, nothing turns off a client more than a dirty case!

A lot of make-up artist I know swear on Primers, I have used almost all of the popular primers out there, but honestly, I don't find a need for them (at least not for a make-up that doesn't need longevity). It is a good idea to invest in one or two of the best ones to even out really bad complexions. I like to use the Smashbox primers or the Make Up Forever HD primers, the clear and the colored ones. Sometimes a peach colored matte primer is all a model needs!!!
I like the Smashbox primer for lids and lips (dual stick), works great and you have two in one!

Foundation is a product I would never buy cheap! As the base for everything and the first layer of cosmetic to touch the client skin, I want the best of the best!
I have a lot of foundations but always tend to use the Make Up Forever HD foundations. They are a bit of an investment but the super pigmented formulation needs only a few drops for complete coverage. This foundation dries matte, so I often mix it with liquid shimmers to get more of a dewy look.
If less coverage is needed, I go to my trusted tinted moisturizer by Laura Mercier, love love love the oil-free formula!
For my air-brush I like Dinair and Temptu foundations. I was once adviced by a very inexperienced make-up retailer to use regular liquid foundation in my air-brush...what a mistake that was!!
Since these products can be costly, don't go off and buy one in every color; all you need is 4 or 5 of them, ranging from the lightest to the darkest, have a medium one for olive tones (yellow base) and have the darkest be one cool (for blue-black) and one more like chocolate milk for warmer skin tones; spend some time in learning how to mix the foundations to achieve the custom colors. After all these years I still don't buy a foundation line in every color, and I have never encountered a problem!

Concealer and camouflage are a crucial part of the kit as well. If possible buy a palette of concealers (or wheels), which will provide a lot of choices. I like Ben Nye concealer wheel, even though I often use the wheel for camouflage (given the density of the product). Laura Mercier has great concealer/camouflage duos, which come with a setting powder as well (fantastic product!). Just like for the foundation, invest in 3 or 4 tones of concealers, from light to dark.

A word on Correctors, first find out how to use them, then purchase some! I had green corrector in my kit for years before I found the courage to use it...I just didn't want to turn anyone into the Hulk! Correctors are fantastic products, and when used well, they can make a huge difference. Make Up Forever has amazing palettes for correctors.

Setting Powders, are used to set the liquid and cream base products (foundations, concealers, camouflage). I like MAC's mineralized skin powders, also Ben Nye for a more intense job on a stage production, like a musical.

Rouges/Blush can change the feel of the make-up, there are amazing colors out there, and it's up to the make-up artist to decide how many to have. I have some spluges from NARS (my favorite is "orgasm"), and from Stila, MAC etc.
The best way to start is to buy a delicate rose, a hot pink, a peach and a maroon color.

Bronzers are also a great purchase. Buy a matte bronzer so it can serve as a contour powder and blush base. I love the ones carried by Benefit, MAC, and NARS.

Shimmers are also important, Benefit has some great liquid ones (Moon Beam and High Beam) relatively inexpensive and easy to mix with foundations. As for powders I go to my goldish colored blush from NARS ("Albatross"), almost invisible to the naked eye, but gives amazing cheekbones in photographs. *I put the powder shimmer on with a fan brush*

Eyeshadows...well, go crazy!!! Just kidding!
Try to find a palette with most colors to start off. Be sure to check that it has both shimmer and matte eyeshadows. Don't buy super cheap or the color pay off will be horrible, buy a mid-range palette. Tarte has some nice ones as well as Too Faced and NYX. Then, as the time progresses and the jobs start to pay I recommend putting together personalized palettes. MAC and Make Up Forever are some of my go to companies for my custom eyeshadow palettes. I have a neutral one for Bridal Make-up, Crazy pinks and purples, blues and greens for Fashion and Fantasy, as well as a sparkles one!
I also recommend the 12 color Cream eyeshadow palette from Make Up Forever, later on in your career, for Fashion and Fantasy make-ups (which includes metallic colors).

Eyeliners, are a personal preference. I use gel liner from MAC to line the lashes, I love how precise and mess free it is (apply with a synthetic angle brush), Kohl pencils (Stila and Estee Lauder) for the waterline and liquid liner occasionally for fantasy makeup (MAC). These products last a long time, so go ahead and buy few but good ones.

Mascara, I personally buy cheap!! The life span of a mascara is 3 months, so I go through a lot of them, and I find that the formulation of store brand mascaras, like L'Oreal, Maybelline, Rimmel is just as good as the big cosmetic companies products (if not better). My favorite (and has been for years) is "Double Extend" from L'Oreal. Have a regular and waterproof formula to choose from, as well as a lengthening and a volumizing formula, according to what the client needs. Use waterproof only when necessary (like Bridal make-up), because the product is drying and will damage lashes in the long run.

Lipstick is also a cheap product I buy, mostly because I have had better results from Rimmel and Revlon than from the bigger companies. I like Make Up Forever and MAC for Fashion colors (Black, Purple etc.)

Lipglosses are just as important as lipsticks, if not more! Find a nice non-stick/non-smelly formula and buy a pink, a peach and a wine color gloss; if you want to push it a step further buy a gold a hot pink and a red one too. NARS has some of the best formulas available, as well as MAC, with a fantastic selection of colors. Start with NYX lipglosses if on a budget, they are great!

False Lashes are often necessary in most make-ups. I buy Ardell, they are not expensive and have the thinnest base. Have some shorter ones and individual clusters (for Street make-up & Bridal), medium length for Fashion make-up and some crazy long ones for Fantasy make-up. Buy the appropriate lashes when you get booked for a job, so you won't have to invest too much up front.
*Remember that lashes need to be charged extra on a make-up job - it is common to charge double the amount of the cost of the lashes- of course the client gets to keep the lashes! *
My go to false lashes glue is DUO in dark. Only need one tube (will last a long time).
Lashes are so easy to apply, but require a lot of practice (do practice on other people, False lashes application on oneself is different than application on others...just like mascara application!).

Remember, don't go spend thousand of dollars in make-up all at once to stock up your kit. If registered for a Make-up course, wait until you begin the course, as most schools provide you with a basic kit.
Same goes for more experienced make-up artist being booked for a film or theatre production, as most productions offer a budget for supplies. Ask the cosmetic supply store if they offer a pro or student discount, most of them do, but need to apply early in advance before going shopping. Most companies also offer a student kit at a discount price, but proof of student registration is needed.

Let your Make-up kit grow with time and experience.
Best of luck.

Be Fabulous,


Personal beauty, Makeup, fashion trends, style & glamour like celebrities.


Madt said...

This has been very helpful thanks Ella :)

Julie said...

Fabulous!!! You are a wealth of knowledge! Thanks for sharing!

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